Monday, January 28, 2013

A Day In Bobby's Hometown

This morning we didn't have to have breakfast until 8:30! This was a very big sleep in (or "lay in" as other-Englishers say) for us and we joked with Bobby that he only let us sleep in because he's having a "hometown visit." Lol. Bobby is such a great leader - extremely knowledgeable, patient, and very good to joke with.

First on today's agenda was a walking tour around the main area of Cusco. Joan was, once again, a great sport, as most of the walking was up steepish inclines. We made our way to the main square, where many people were gathered. There were marvelous grassy areas (that, I found out, you don't walk on!), flowers, churches, restaurants (Mama Africa, Paddy's Pub, Italian, coffee shops, you name it!) and many people just sitting, visiting, enjoying life :)






Bobby gave us a lot of history, as usual, and a tonne of information about everything from local customs, to plants, to traveling tips, etc.

Cusco was originally named Qosqo, a Quechan word for belly-button, as Cusco was the centre of the Inca world and the Incans thought of Cusco as the capital of South America. But when the Spanish came over, they could not pronounce Qosqo, so they changed the name to Cusco.

There are many churches here, about 18. This is because, as we have seen in other areas of Peru, when the Spanish came over, they conspired with the Roman Catholic church and tried to convert native Peruvian's to Catholic religion, and one of the ways they did this was by trying to flood the population with Catholic churches.

"The Cathedral" (in the first picture above) is an example of this. But inside, there are some classic evidences of the smart native Peruvian's keeping "their own foot in their own door." Cusco is famous for their paintings, and most of the paintings in the churches and government buildings in Peru come from Cusco (don't forget- Cusco is the best! ), but the Spanish would only allow Roman Catholic paintings to be displayed. So the Quechan people would become creative to try and incorporate some of their traditions into these settings. Two of these paintings include Christ on the Cross and The Last Supper. Where Jesus is on the cross, his legs are not straight, but instead bowed at the knees, as this was common for Inca and Quechan people. In The Last Supper, there is no lamb on the table, but instead a guinea pig. And the glasses are not full of wine, but are mugs of chicha, corn beer.

Way back when, Cusco's plaza was double the size with a river running through it. Now, the river runs underground (it has been canaled) and a few buildings divide the plaza, creating two plazas.

On the way to the other half of the plaza (or the second plaza), we stopped at a map where Bobby showed us how the old town of Cusco was in the shape of a Puma. (Pumas are very important here, as it PachaMama (mother earth), and Inti (the sun)).

Next stop: the local market! Bobby warned us, but, well... You see it started out a normal-ish market, with flowers, and bread, and fruits & vegetables...



Even some nuts and seeds...



But along came chickens feet...



And then 'twas but a pigs head...



But that hardly prepared us for the hanging boy-balls (of who knows what!)...


And don't forget the frogs! (Live ones on left, skinned ones on display, right)



Let alone the donkeys mouths and the dead alpacas fetuses (I think I could make a poem out of this)...





By the way, I skipped the pictures of all of the intestines, stomachs, tongues and ears, as I just had to concentrate on not ralfing from the smell of the "innards" section... They eat all of this (and there were restaurants at the market!), except for the dead alpaca fetuses; these they only buy as an offering back to PachaMama (Mother Earth) for unknowingly taking a pregnant alpaca.



They even had masks of all kinds (including toque versions!)... And we can clearly see that Bobby has been lying about Cusco being the best, as his nose has grown like Pinocchios!...



It was a good morning, and the weather held up beautifully for the afternoon. Martina came with me for my mystery date (stay tuned...) and we found a lovely hole to order fries and fruit shakes from... Amazing! (Best fries and fruit shakes yet... And the fries came with aioli, or alioli, as they said)

The rest of the afternoon was mostly spent trying to frustratingly upload pics to Facebook.

Then a mate loud dinner at Uchu's (Thanks, Lindsey and Geoff, so much, for the recommendation... Everyone loved it!). I had a dinner of mojitos, appy of coconut curry soup, and shared a hot stone platter of shrimp, alpaca and chicken with Martina, with a side of salad... All Sooo marvellously delicious!!! Everyone's meal was so good!




Location:Cusco (Qosco)

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Never So Glad for a Six Hour Bus Ride

Well, this morning it is safe to say that we are all happy to be leaving Puno. Not because it wasn't a nice place, but because we just haven't had enough time to acclimatize (though, that said, this morning I actually feel the best I have in days! Maybe we're leaving just as I'm acclimatizing! Lol)

We made our way to the local bus station at 7:30am, and departed for Cusco about 8:15am. We paid an extra S/.10 (ten soles=$4) to be in business class, on the bottom level of the double decker bus... Well worth it :)

Cusco is Bobby's home now, and the whole trip has been full of "but Cusco's is the best," and "just wait until we get to Cusco." Lol. Cusco has "the best beer," "the best food," "the best alpacas wool prices," the best everything! Haha.

Our arrival at Hotel Warary 14 was just in time to miss the rain starting to fall. We were blessed for our room with a view :)






For lunch/dinner at 3:30pm, Bobby took us to a very local restaurant where there were no other tourists, no English, and only local dishes. It was quite different from any menu I'd ever seen, but good to try, none the less :) Mom and I shared two small dishes - one was sliced potato, layered with cheese, onions, and some olive paste, then baked in the oven (similar to scalloped potatoes), and the other, which I loved, but her not so much, were two peppers stuffed with spicy hamburger, rice, carrots, and some raisins... Delish!

After that we all simply spent the evening relaxing; reading, watching TV, etc.


Location:Puno to Cusco

Saturday, January 26, 2013

A Day On the Lake

HAPPY AUSTRALIA DAY!

This morning we took local transport 7-min to the port, where we caught our boat for our day on Lake Titicaca, South Americas largest lake. Our local transport was basically a bike with a bench-seat at the front.









INSIDE OUR BOAT

Our first stop was to visit the people of the floating islands. Serially, the use the reeds in the lake to make little floating islands, and then build little reed houses, and towers (and toys, and boats...). There were 2500 people in this little community of floating islands.







They showed us how they make the little islands, and then took us into their houses, where they cornered us to buy stuff, Lol...



THE LADY DRESSED MOM UP WITH HER CLOTHES, INSIDE THE LADYS HOUSE... TOO FUNNY.

We returned outside to find Joan had also been all dressed up. We said, "She's going to be the next floating lady!" And Bobby said, "No, she going to be the next postcard!!" Hahaha...Too cute!


Then it was time to go on a boat ride, for ten soles (nothing for free with these floating people! Lol) S/.10 is about $4.






MARTINA SPORTS HER AUSTRALIA DAY PRIDE ALL AROUND THE LAKE.



THEN THE REST OF US JOINED IN, TO SUPPORT AUSTRALIA DAY. WE ALL GOT TATTOOED UP BEFORE OUR NEXT STOP.

Next stop, three hours to another community, this time in the inner part of Lake Titicaca, where the water is deep and the trout are plentiful! These people live on an actual island, not a floating one.





TROUT LUNCH WITH A VIEW FOR S/.20 ($8)... (WHITE MANS PRICE)... OUR APPY WAS QUINOA SOUP... SO GOOD!

The hike up for lunch was pretty hard on us, with the altitude making us all feel a little off. This is about 3900m (give or take). Lake Titicaca is shared between Peru and Bolivia, and it was only recently (within 20-40years) that they built a road between the two countries in this area. Before, everything went by steamboat. Now there is little work for the steamboats, as it is only a three-hour drive on the "new" road.

As we were arriving back to Puno, in the late afternoon, it would seem that our luck of no rain in the rainy season would come to an end, as the horizon and stormy skies blended.



We actually wound up lucking out, as most of the storm missed us :)

That evening Bobby recommended a lovely restaurant and those of us that were feeling okay decided to check it out. It was a restaurant that had live music and dancers, who portrayed all the different kinds of dances in the Puno region. When we got there, most of the tables were reserved, and not one other person was there yet, as the show didn't start until 7:30pm... But we were hungry travelers and I suppose it showed, as they were happy to seat us.



NOT ONE OTHER PERSON IM THE PLACE!

I had an appy on Andean soup (quinoa, alpaca chunks, shredded veggies) and Mom had French Onion Soup. Then for mains, during the show (when there were other people there! Lol), Mom had pizza, Martina had amazing alpaca in berry and cheese, Katrina had a chicken dish, and I had alpaca skewers with a coconut/mango sauce. Martina stuck her good ol' frozen lemonade, and I enjoyed piƱa coladas! The show was great, and the musicians on their little flutey-things were amazing!

























Thanks for a great day, Puno! And now, time for rest.